Pierre Trowbridge

Adventures of the VeloTramp

A Night in a Barn at the Auld Farm Inn

October 19, 2014 by Pierre 7 Comments

I once slept in a storage closet on a train in Vietnam. I once slept on a park bench in Mokpo, Korea. Now I have the pleasure of adding a barn to my list of unusual places I’ve sleep.

The occasion arose on Thursday after I completed a ride from Iona to Baddeck. It was getting later in the day so I started heading east out of town in search of a place to pitch my tent. There was none. On either side of the road there was water or private properties with people at home, so there was nowhere to set up camp. It was damned near dark at this point and I was starting to get a little desperate. It was then that I spied the Auld Farm Inn. The sign on the front lawn said “No Vacancy” but I headed inside anyway, hopeful that the operators would allow me to set my camp somewhere on their grounds.

The Aul Farm Inn
The Auld Farm Inn

The Auld Farm Inn is owned and operated by the husband and wife team of Jan and Glen Vickers. Upon entering the Inn it was Glen that I met first. When I asked him about a place that I may set up camp, he thought for a moment and then offered me the use of their barn. He seemed a little hesitant as he offered it to me, but when I responded as enthusiastically to the idea as I did he seemed to lose his uncertainty. He led me across the yard from the Inn to their 150 year old barn. And while outwardly I maintained some semblance of decorum, inside I was about to burst with excitement. “I’m going to sleep in a barn,” was all I could think. “I’m going to sleep in a f**king barn!” I don’t have an official bucket list but if I did, sleeping in a barn would be on it.

Wagon wheel in the barn
Wagon Wheel in the Barn

The barn was beautiful. The floors had recently been renovated as the barn had played host to a couple of wedding receptions. Beyond this the barn was beautifully cared for and maintained with its traditional wood slat exterior walls, open rough beams, and authentic tools and equipment. The coup de gras was the hay bales. There were places where I could see out little spaces between the boards but it had a good roof and it was nice and dry. It was perfect.

I never knew a barn could be so clean
I never knew a barn could be so clean

A short time later I was visited by Jan. She brought with her four liters of water for my evenings needs. We chatted a little and shared a couple of laughs and then she bid me good night and went on her way. I set up my kitchen next to the fire pit to one side of the barn. I soon had my little stove pumping heat into some rice and beans. After a meal fit for a king, albeit a king of a poor and decrepit kingdom, and with the dishes washed it was time to wash something else: me!

Jan brought me 4 litres of much needed water. Thank you Jan.
Jan brought me 4 litres of much needed water. Thank you Jan.

I heated some water, dropped in a little soap, and stripped off to the bare nothing. Adonis Unfurled. The fire pit area wasn’t visible from the Inn, not that it mattered. If anybody could see my little bit of junk from over there then they have truly remarkable eyes, worthy of epic poetry. So there I was, standing in a darkened corner outside a 150 year old barn, naked as the day I was brought into the world, singing to my hearts content, washing out of a pot that had held rice and beans a half an hour before, and wondering, could I be just about the luckiest schmuck in the world?

The Barn
The Barn

Washing complete, I put on my freshest dirty clothes, crawled into my sleeping bag, and soon was fast asleep atop some hay bales that I had arranged for a bed. What an incredibly snug and cozy night it was in the Auld Farm Inn barn. A tremendous thank you to Jan and Glen for their compassion and hospitality to a late and weary traveler. The night in your barn will long be amongst my favourite travel stories.

 

Do not let a flattering woman coax and wheedle you and deceive you; she is after your barn  

– Hesiod

Day 2: Iona to Baddeck

October 17, 2014 by Pierre 1 Comment

The 2nd day after the restart was another day of good riding. I started out along route 223 from just outside of Iona and then onto the Trans Canada Highway toward Baddeck.

Despite the grey, featureless skies, the ride on 223 was gorgeous. Once again, trees awash in brilliant reds and oranges were the main feature, interrupted periodically by small lakes or cottage properties, and, in one particular gorge, brilliant white gypsum rock.

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White Gypsum rock backed by beautiful fall colors

The rock was surprisingly brittle, but occassionally razor sharp. The bright white of it practically leaping from the oranges, reds, and greens surrounding it.

Farm House near Iona
Yellow House, Orange Trees

A short time after passing the farm house, I came upon a short ferry ride at Little Narrows.

Ferry, Little Narrows, NS

Ferry, Little Narrows, NS

After the ferry crossing was a busy and noisy ride along the Trans Canada to Baddeck passing some lovely scenery along the way.

Fall Colours TCH near Baddeck, NS
Fall Colours TCH near Baddeck, NS
Cottage and Red Tree, TCH, NS
Cottage and Red Tree, TCH, NS

The days ride ended a few kilometers east of Baddeck. It was past dark and I still hadn’t found a place to camp. I checked at an Inn I passed but there was no room. So they offered me the barn. I accepted. But more on that later.

 

A Day On the Road

October 16, 2014 by Pierre 1 Comment

Yesterday the journey restarted from Sydney riding southwest on route 223 into a headwind with gusts that reached 50k per hour. Despite the wind, I was able to make good time ending the day just a little past Iona.

The tree lined road was awash in fall colors with the trees occassionally giving way to railway tracks, fields, cottages, or St. Andrews Channel.

IMG_2014101619515

The highlight of the day was arriving at Grand Narrows and Iona, two small communities on either side of Barra Stait.

Grand Narrows, NS
Grand Narrows, NS

It was an idyllic setting and the warm temps and sunlit skies only added to its charm and allure.

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Iona, NS

It was part way up the next hill into the heart of Iona that I met Margie. She had passed me earlier in the day driving down from her home near Sydney with her friend Evelyn, to visit her sister Agnes. Margie invited me in to her sister’s home and they gave me nice cool fresh water to drink and freshly picked apples to eat. What a wonderful and unexpected treat. The three ladies were fantastic as we shared great conversation and a few laughs. To top it off they refilled my water bottles and gave me another apple for the road. It’s chance meetings like these that, for me, are such an integral part of the travel experience.

From left to right: Margy, Agnus, and Evelyn
From left to right: Margie, Agnes, and Evelyn.

Cape Breton Photo Gallery 1

October 14, 2014 by Pierre 5 Comments

Cape Breton PAstoral
Cape Breton Pastoral
Main A Dieu, NS
Main A Dieu, NS
Sunrise, Mira Gut, NS
Sunrise, Mira Gut, NS
The Battery, Fortress of Louisbourg, Louisbourg, NS
The Battery, Fortress of Louisbourg, NS
Fox, Mira Gut, NS
Fox, Mira Gut, NS
Squirrel, Mira Gut, NS
Squirrel, Mira Gut, NS
Seaside Home, Pport Morien, NS
Seaside Home, Port Morien, NS
Guard, Fortress of Louisbourg, Louisbourg, NS
Guard, Fortress of Louisbourg, NS
Goat, Fortress of Louisbourg, NS
Goat, Fortress of Louisbourg, NS
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Hey, I'm Pierre. I am a restless spirit who has been fighting migratory instincts twice annually for as long as I can remember and in doing so have lived much of my life as a square peg in a round hole. So, now I am about to embark upon a journey of a different sort. I am searching for a square hole.

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